Balkan Gems: Discovering Ohrid’s Shores and Skopje’s Splendor

I’ve spent a considerable amount of time researching flights to Ohrid, North Macedonia, and I can confidently say that this enchanting city by Lake Ohrid is worth every effort. I’ve heard countless praises about its beauty, and I was determined to experience it for myself. Ohrid is nothing short of magical, and I firmly believe that three days is plenty to fully explore its wonders. To make the most of your visit, I recommend using private transportation, whether it’s a car or a motorbike. Since I traveled without these options, I’m excited to share my valuable tips as a solo backpacker to enhance your experience.

Ohrid airport is quite small. Upon arrival and after passing through passport control, you will quickly find yourself outside. While there are no buses to the city, taking a taxi is the most practical choice. Taxi drivers may attempt to charge more, so it’s wise to know the standard fare of 10€. You can confidently negotiate the price or share a taxi with other travelers, or better yet, arrange a transfer through your hostel in advance.

The city centre effortlessly combines charm and modernity, beautifully situated around the lake. Dozens of individual homes and commercial buildings in Ohrid proudly stand as Cultural Heritage sites. The small white houses, each adorned with a wooden label depicting the commercial establishment, are quintessentially Ohrid. Every street welcomes you with adorable lamps that light up the night, embodying the essence of this remarkable city. In fact, the very name Ohrid translates to “city of light” or “portable lamp.” Starting from the lake, a scenic climb leads you to the fortress (3€, cash only), offering breathtaking views that are simply unforgettable.

One of my favorite spots is the Church of Saint John, which boasts a breathtaking view of the lake. You can easily reach it by descending from the Church of Saints Clement of Ohrid or by taking the scenic lakeside path. I highly recommend the lake route on your way to or back from the city center; it offers a delightful walk along the water that’s absolutely worth it. From the Church of Saint John, you can effortlessly access Labino Vista Point, easily found on Google Maps. While the Roman Amphitheatre is completely free, all the churches do charge an entrance fee. Ohrid is renowned for having once featured 365 churches—one for each day of the year. The entrance ticket price varies from €1.5 to €3 (Church of Saints Clement of Ohrid accept card payment).

If you decide to stroll around the lake, you’ll discover an exceptionally beautiful experience. Visiting the city in a single day is absolutely achievable—I’ve done it myself—but be ready to feel a touch of exhaustion by the end.

A daily trip to the Saint Naum monastery is easily accessible by public bus for just 130 denars one way (cash only directly to the bus driver). Located only 40 minutes from Ohrid, this charming site may not be large, but it boasts two exquisite churches nestled within the woods. You can reach one of them by taking a scenic tourist boat that navigates the springs, but I chose to walk, and it was incredibly rewarding. At the monastery, you’ll find several restaurants and souvenir shops. To ensure a smooth return, simply ask the bus driver for the day’s timetable!

After Ohrid, I traveled to the capital, Skopje. Although my time in the city was brief, it left a strong impression before I continued on to Kosovo. Skopje stands in stark contrast to Ohrid, with its impressive fortress, lively old bazaar, and numerous striking gigantic statues that reflect their affinity for grand monuments. The city center is easily reachable from the bus station with a simple 40-minute walk, and it offers a dependable public bus system featuring iconic red double-decker buses reminiscent of the UK’s.

More tips to know:

  • Denar is the primary currency, and while they accept Euro, expect a slight markup 🥲
  • Card payment options are rare; cash is your best bet.
  • Most ATMs charge withdrawal fees, except for the green ATMs at Komercijalna Banka.
  • Vegetarian food is easy to find, and meals are very affordable. Plus, the tap water is safe to drink.
  • English proficiency is limited.1
  • A ticket to Skopje from Ohrid costs 850 den. Numerous companies operate daily services, and you can easily reach Skopje Airport from Ohrid. My bus (Classic Company) conveniently departed just behind my hostel (Sunset Lake Hostel). At the bus station, you’ll find two additional companies offering the same route for the same fare price.
  • The bus station in Skopje is highly efficient and compact, providing a multitude of buses to an array of destinations across several countries. Before boarding, you just pay a small fee of 80 den for the bus station service, so make sure to arrive a bit earlier
  • Two website are very useful to check the bus ride timetable in the Balkans: Traveling.com and Gjirafa Travel. Most buses can’t be paid only but at least you can see the time table 🚗😉
  • Last but certainly not least, ensure you have a reliable internet connection. While I had limited data, I managed just fine. Nevertheless, I highly recommend downloading the maps.me app and adding the map of the country you’re traveling to. With maps.me, you can navigate perfectly offline! 😎

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